There’s not too much competition for the most expensive bowl of pho in town. While most Vietnamese cafes offer an all-in bowl of Saigon-style pho for $8 or $10, Nightingale Nine pours a premium Hanoi pho for $15, and so does Hanoi House at the same price. Even Bunker, an intentionally buzzy spot, demands only $17, or an extra $4 with oxtail. We have fine-dining Vietnamese restaurants, too, but these places offer it as an app. Thus the pho at Le Colonial comes in at $12, while that of Indochine is $13, both for smaller servings. This leaves Rice & Gold, which serves a bowl for $30, an open field to offer the priciest version in New York.

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