When one of the best chefs in the world—the only chef with two restaurants on the Fifty Best list, in fact—opens a casual, all-day affair in Manhattan’s trendiest neighborhood, you get ATLA. Enrique Olvera’s stripped-down sibling establishment to the dressed-up Cosme is no slouch. Chef Olvera and his Chef de Cuisine, Daniela Soto-Innes, have created another hit: one that dabbles in all day-parts and succeeds from 8AM to 2AM.

The first thing you notice about ATLA, after the well-earned press and praise, is the space. It’s stylish, sleek, and minimalist. The focus here is food, beverage, and people—those inside and those walking past the giant, aquarium windows through NoHo.   Second: the cheery, attentive service team at the ready to settle you in for the fun—be it fresh juice, guacamole toast, single-farm mezcal, or the newly-launched tacos. Finally, that food, which is light, bright, and packing punches you don’t anticipate but welcome warmly. The chicken enchiladas, for example, bathed in either verde or rojo salsa, is excellent in its simplicity, but unlike any enchilada you’ve had before. Sweet blueberries come nested on top of coconut yogurt and drizzled in olive oil. And that’s just breakfast! Stay all day to catch the dinner menu, which abounds with more hits, like the ayocote hummus, fish Milanese, and ceviche verde.

The Takeaway: All-day dining is on the rise in NYC, as restaurateurs look to maximize revenue from rent-straddled locations. Few are doing it better than ATLA, which occupies a space that encourages sitting, watching, and indulging. The menu excels in the morning as well as at night—which is its key to approachability. Not designed to be Cosme-light, but rather of its own identity, ATLA succeeds by providing compelling reasons to visit: superb food, beverages, and service that cater to diners throughout the day.