Step into Ugly Baby and the bright colors explode: reds, oranges, yellows, and blues sponged on the walls, sometimes resembling clouds and mountains. The narrow room seats 25 at small tables and five along a counter that borders the open kitchen. The origin of the name? In Thailand new parents hesitate to praise a baby to keep evil spirits away. Calling a baby ugly almost guarantees good fortune, or in this case, good food.
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